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Tokaido Day 5 – Monday, 13 November: Rest day

If the first half of yesterday’s walk was the most interesting so far, the second half was the hardest. When I planned my route out back in Sydney, it was based around entering locations into Google Maps and looking for train stations near the Old Tokaido that were between 20 and 25 kilometres walk apart. Problem is, that seems to be consistently underestimating the actual distance walked by between four and six kilometres. Based on yesterday’s experience, there’s unfortunately just no way I can keep that pace up and I’ve having to rejig the itinerary. The unavoidable result will be that I’ll arrive in Kyoto later than originally planned and will have less time for leisurely sightseeing between the end of the walk and the flight home. Disappointing, but rather that than give up. Fortunately, all the onward hotels (bar the next one) can be cancelled without penalty.

So today, which was always scheduled to be a rest day, has been spent taking it easy and doing some laundry. I had an excellent massage (just $30 for 1 hour) and strolled around Odawara castle.


The main castle tower (pictured) and the gates that guard the entrances are modern reproductions, but there are some excellent displays showing the historical sources they’re based on. Extensive displays on the five floors of the tower dive into the castle’s history and that of the surrounding town, and its relationship with the Tokaido. About a quarter of the displays have English signage.

The view from the top is worth the climb:


Today has been bright and clear, and the forecast for tomorrow is similar. I’m heading up into the hills via Hakone, so fingers are crossed for some views of Mount Fuji. That notwithstanding, I’m nervous about the day ahead. This is the first point where the Old Tokaido veers away from the main transport corridor, so although I’ll never be far from a road, transport options will be limited until I reach the tourist spot of Hakone Checkpoint, 18 km from Odawara and a 900 m climb. The plan is to get up early, send my big bag on to the next hotel at Shizuoka and take my time.

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  1. Good luck John and all the best. Big day ahead!

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