Skip to main content

Tokaido Day 5 – Monday, 13 November: Rest day

If the first half of yesterday’s walk was the most interesting so far, the second half was the hardest. When I planned my route out back in Sydney, it was based around entering locations into Google Maps and looking for train stations near the Old Tokaido that were between 20 and 25 kilometres walk apart. Problem is, that seems to be consistently underestimating the actual distance walked by between four and six kilometres. Based on yesterday’s experience, there’s unfortunately just no way I can keep that pace up and I’ve having to rejig the itinerary. The unavoidable result will be that I’ll arrive in Kyoto later than originally planned and will have less time for leisurely sightseeing between the end of the walk and the flight home. Disappointing, but rather that than give up. Fortunately, all the onward hotels (bar the next one) can be cancelled without penalty.

So today, which was always scheduled to be a rest day, has been spent taking it easy and doing some laundry. I had an excellent massage (just $30 for 1 hour) and strolled around Odawara castle.


The main castle tower (pictured) and the gates that guard the entrances are modern reproductions, but there are some excellent displays showing the historical sources they’re based on. Extensive displays on the five floors of the tower dive into the castle’s history and that of the surrounding town, and its relationship with the Tokaido. About a quarter of the displays have English signage.

The view from the top is worth the climb:


Today has been bright and clear, and the forecast for tomorrow is similar. I’m heading up into the hills via Hakone, so fingers are crossed for some views of Mount Fuji. That notwithstanding, I’m nervous about the day ahead. This is the first point where the Old Tokaido veers away from the main transport corridor, so although I’ll never be far from a road, transport options will be limited until I reach the tourist spot of Hakone Checkpoint, 18 km from Odawara and a 900 m climb. The plan is to get up early, send my big bag on to the next hotel at Shizuoka and take my time.

Previous day's post

Next day's post

Comments

  1. Good luck John and all the best. Big day ahead!

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Tokaido prologue

Hiroshige, Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido . No. 26: Kakegawa I visited Japan in 2017 and 2019, on the second occasion with Fred, as well as my partner (with whom I’d travelled in 2017) and her son. Like most people who come for the first (or second) time, we took the Shinkansen – bullet train – from Tokyo to Kyoto on the line called the Tokaido. Volumes have been written about the wonders of Japan’s Shinkansen system. It is, I think, something that should be experienced at least once in everyone’s life if possible. ‘Tokaido’ means ‘eastern sea road’, and the line bears that name because it follows – more or less – the route of the centuries-old road that linked the Imperial capital of Kyoto with the Shogunate’s headquarters in Edo (now Tokyo), respectively the seats of ceremonial and administrative power. For hundreds of years, thousands of travellers made the 500-kilometre trip between the two cities (and usually back again), the vast majority of them on foot: horses were rare, t...

Tokaido Day 14 – Wednesday, 22nd November: Fukuroi to Takatsuka (32 km)

  The clouds had disappeared overnight, and the day was bright and clear. Maybe a couple of degrees warmer than recent days, but still great conditions for walking.  After buffet breakfast at the hotel, I took the train back to Fukuroi. From the station it was another kilometre or so just to get back onto the Tokaido – or so I thought. When I checked the map in the guidebook it turned out I’d walked further than I needed. Never mind. Outside a temple, a group of jizo looked particularly handsome in the early-morning light: So much care has gone into this little tableau, from the hats and bibs to the fresh flowers. A fine example of an ichirizuka (a reconstruction, as it turned out) was accompanied by a plaque that carried an English summary: Opposite the ichirizuka, a shrine seemed like a good place to pay my respects for the day. As I was leaving, I was greeted by a gentleman I’d noticed at Fukuroi station and noted as a possible fellow walker. Yamada-san had, in turn, spotte...

Tokaido Day 15 – Thursday, 23 November: Takatsuka to Futagawa (30km)

  Slightly warmer again today, although with a haze that obscured the more distant views. I again took advantage of the hotel’s free breakfast before jumping on a Tokaido local train one stop down the line to Takatsuka. Not far down the road, a large shrine provided an opportunity to pay my respects and hope for a successful day’s walking. There was little of interest between Takatsuka and Lake Hamana, although it was good – as always – to come across an avenue of typical Old Tokaido pines: I stopped for a takeaway coffee from a konbini and spotted a park opposite that offered shade and benches. It turned out to be the grounds of a shrine, hidden amongst the trees, but as a group of seniors was setting up for a game of that golf-croquet hybrid I’d seen a few days earlier, I figured recreation was just as valid as devotion in this particular spot. A woman parked her bicycle near my bench and spoke to me; I adopted the default position of smiling and nodding, and gesturing to indicat...